09 April 2010

Visiting Constable Country

[Photo]What would you choose to do on the most beautiful day of spring? BBQs, picnics, visits to a local pub's beer festival and cycling over the hills of Suffolk are among some of the very many activities our friends participated in over this past weekend. We were lucky enough to have a visitor from America and took to opportunity to endulge in a relaxing afternoon including a long walk along the Stour River trail after an amazing lunch at a well known pub and a little bit of sight seeing following an evening of live music and steak and ale pies. We basically made the most of our less than 24-hour visit and stayed within a 12-mile radius of Bures. How did we do it? We mapped out the area we wanted to stay in, took into consideration the amount of time we had and multiplied that by what I call "impact factor". The equation led us to a route that took us through a quick drive around Bures and into Dedham and Flatford - the heart of Constable Country. [Photo]If you haven't visited Constable Country, make the effort. And, if you have't spent time inDedham or Flatford in particular, consider it a must-do. Eating, walking, sightseeing, crafting and boating are only a handful of things you can occupy yourself doing in these villages. With exquisite dining at the reknown Sun Inn to casual pub fare or a vanilla ice cream cone just around the corner, delicious food is plentiful here and can cater to any size budget.
Once you've had your fill of food and drink, your next stop should be the Dedham Art and Craft[Photo]Centre. This centre is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. You will find arts and crafts from all over the area as well as a few from further afield. Stop by the church next door for a tour and a trip up the tower for a breathtaking view of Stour River Valley. Once you've made your way through Dedham, your next stop should be Flatford Mill. But don't get back in the car to do this. The footpath from Dedham to Flatford provides for an easy walk. And, if you are looking for something a little more adventurous, consider hiring a boat at the Dedham Boat House. Whichever way you choose to get to Flatford, you are guaranteed a wonderful visit. And may even be welcomed by some of the area's more unique residents. Once in Flatford, be sure to visit the Flatford Bridge Museum and the infamous house of Willy Lott. [Photo]Regardless of which activities you choose while here, you are guaranteed a beautiful visit of an historically important area of East Anglia. Just don't forget to stop and smell the flowers! 

Chalkney Wood

Oftentimes when I discover a new place I can feel how old it is, especially now that I am in England. I can almost smell the ancient age of trees and soil in the air. And sometimes, a place has such familiarity that I actually wonder if I have been there before. Take Chalkney Wood for example. In the heart of Colne Valley in Essex County lies Chalkney Wood, an ancient forest that has lived for nearly 10,000 years. Yet, however ancient this forestland is, it can be said that it does not give the same feel as other places I have been. The wood is skillfully managed by the Essex County Council and the Forestry Commission. Coppicing has been practiced in this wood for over 400 years so if they don’t have that method down yet, they probably never will. Suffice it to say though they have it down. And this past weekend I observed first hand the practice of coppicing and reaped the benefits of this method of woodland management. [Photo]
Chalkney Wood The drive to the wood was quick and easy. As my husband, stepson and I drove up the dirt road to Chalkney Wood, I felt a thrill I haven’t in a long time. With the pinging sound of gravel kicking up on the underneath of the car it reminded me of home, driving on the back roads of Vermont. How apropos that the address to the wood is America Road. There were multiple choices of paths from which to choose to enter the wood. On our chosen trail we quickly found ourselves meandering through a recently cut portion that had begun to re-grow giving that fresh and alive feeling of youth. As we worked our way through, admiring the many wildflowers in the early stages of bloom, we enjoyed the sun on our face and the piercing blue sky. Conversation sprouted on how this part of the wood had been cut very recently and that certain trees were proudly sporting their bright orange patch to show how they had been chosen to remain standing while others had obviously met their match with a chainsaw. A clear sign that the survivors were the chosen natives to remain, almost as if to watch over life. [Photo]

Wool Street No sooner had we finished that conversation did we notice that the wood had changed dramatically. Larger trees, plenty of undergrowth, woodland flowers and moss-covered stumps were enveloping us until our sunny path turned into a wonderful true woodland walk. The trees were older and we felt their age. The path seemed endless too. Weaving our way throughout the woods, often changing course, we found ourselves resting at handmade benches, on stumps or even in trees. My breathing was steady save for the several deep breaths made to inhale the smell of decomposing leaves and trees: a real woodland smell triggering another recognition I couldn’t quite put my finger on. Was it home? I do miss New England and I almost found it here in Chalkney Wood. It was at this moment I noticed we were walking along the ancient Roman street, Wool Street. Haha! This is definitely not New England. This is true England in all it's ancient life and history. And we were here, walking the same path, breathing the same air and living in a moment that so many of our forefathers had done. [Photo]
Muntjac (center of path in distance) 
All in all it was a marvelous day, complete with a picnic lunch, a few tree climbs, wildlife and laughter. The promises of viewing wildlife as long as we remained fairly quiet became a reality when we spotted one hungry muntjac – my stepson’s first glimpse of a muntjac too. I encourage you to visit Chalkney Wood. If it’s in your back garden, you have nothing to lose. If it’s the better part of a day for you to get there, bring your picnic lunch and binoculars. You won’t be disappointed. Take the Chalkney Wood Walk This marvelous 5-mile walk takes you through the Colne Valley and Chalkney Wood into Earles Colne. Enjoy lunch at one of the several pubs or a cream tea at the tea room in Earles Colne. Visit the Colne Valley site for details of the walk.
Nearby Villages of interest include Marks Tey, Bures, Sudbury and Colchester.

The River Stour

To kick off this blog about living in and visiting East Anglia, it seems most appropriate to write about the river Stour. Appropriate because I have explored this area more than any other in East Anglia. Appropriate because it is one of England's oldest navigations. And appropriate in hopes that the river's original meaning "the strong, powerful one", will give this blog the strength and power to continue on, perhaps changing course, yet encouraging some to take refuge along it's mighty path.
[Photo] In short, it is modestly stunning. The river gracefully curves along the landscape and softly erodes its banks to slowly change its course. Slowly being the operative word: so slow in fact that change is indiscernable until centuries have passed and only the paintings and photographs of times past compared to those of present indicate the true nature of the river's actions. The history alone makes one walk slower to soak in as much as possible, to breath in air that may have existed hundreds of years ago in hopes of capturing a glimpse of life as it used to be or perhaps to give oneself a new perspective on life as it is now. Whether you are in need of such solititude, simply need to stretch your legs or are in search of the famed and most honored inhabitants of the River, the white-legged damsel fly, scarse chasher dragonfly and the otter, the river can accommodate you.
Must Sees & Dos Along The River Stour Bridges of the Stour Long Melford Dedham Vale Flatford Chappel and Wakes Colne Bures Special Links Tourist Guide to Suffolk Villages On-line Guide to Suffolk River Stour Trust River Stour Boating [Photo]